{"id":165,"date":"2015-06-08T21:27:24","date_gmt":"2015-06-09T02:27:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/biblionalia.info\/leah\/?page_id=165"},"modified":"2021-04-08T09:44:40","modified_gmt":"2021-04-08T14:44:40","slug":"construction","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/www.biblionalia.info\/leah\/timey-wimey-garb-project\/8th-century-tang-dynasty-china\/construction\/","title":{"rendered":"Tang Garment Construction"},"content":{"rendered":"

This page was first published in June 2015, and is in need of some updates. We all learn new things in the span of four years! <3<\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

I’m working on revamping these various sections by building off of my class handout for the Known World Costume and Fiber Arts Symposium (2019)<\/a>. Watch the outline for those updates. As I add them, I’ll be removing the old information and eventually this page will be gone. Thanks! <3<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

The Hezi<\/p>\n

(historical notes<\/a>)<\/p>\n

To make my prototype\u00a0hezi<\/em>, I measured around my chest (40″) and from the top of my bust to a little below the underbust line. I then cut out a piece of muslin on the bias and sewed up the side seams. I tried it on inside out and adjusted the fit so that it was snug, but so I could still take it off and put it on with relative ease. My finished pieces ended up being 17″ wide by 9″ tall. I cut a curve on the front piece and lowered the back so it would fit more smoothly. My finished pieces were 17″ wide, with a 9″ tall front and 7.5″ tall sides and back.<\/p>\n

Cutting fabric on the bias is key, so that the fabric is stretchy enough to go on without a closure and to hold you in. I’m not sure if the\u00a0hezi<\/em>\u00a0was intended to be a breast-binding garment, since breast-binding in China supposedly began in the Song Dynasty (right after Tang) along with foot-binding (Wu, 2010, p. 104). Much like the geometrically constructed European kirtle, I think that squishing the breasts down was a way to secure them.<\/p>\n

I used left over silk and white linen to make my\u00a0hezi<\/em>\u00a0– the silk will be the fashion layer and the linen the lining. I chose to line my\u00a0hezi<\/em>\u00a0both to protect the silk from skin oils and wear, and also because later undergarments and undergarments were lined for warmth and durability. I finished the seams\u00a0separately and then finished the top and bottom seams together in order to attach the lining to the silk. The only issue I have had with my\u00a0hezi<\/em>\u00a0has been some gapping at the underbust. My plan is to evaluate this during it’s first “event-wear test” and see if it is really a problem.<\/p>\n

I have yet to embroider my\u00a0hezi<\/em>, but I think I will make sure the embroidery goes through to the lining, so that the lining serves as an interfacing. I’m not sure how this will affect the stretchiness of the silk. \u00a0As I try on my\u00a0hezi<\/em>\u00a0and contemplate the\u00a0qixiong ruqun<\/em>\u00a0(shirt and skirt), it makes sense that this foundation layer helped smooth out curves to make the skirt sit more securely above the breast.<\/p>\n<\/a>

Contents<\/p>